Seacock material on M26
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Seacock material on M26
I am the new owner of an M26 from 1978. Can anyone please tell me if the yard that built these boats (also the IF boat) used brass or bronze seacocks for the cockpit and galley sink drains and engine cooling water intake?
I understand that, due to de-zincification, brass has a life of less than 10 years but replacement material should be as the original in order to avoid galvanic corrosion. Alternatively I could change everything!
Can I tell if a seacock is brass or bronze just by looking at it?
Any help most gratefully appreciated. Fred
I understand that, due to de-zincification, brass has a life of less than 10 years but replacement material should be as the original in order to avoid galvanic corrosion. Alternatively I could change everything!
Can I tell if a seacock is brass or bronze just by looking at it?
Any help most gratefully appreciated. Fred
- maja
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As I have learned, this is very much dependant on the quality of brass or bronze material used. My boat (serial no. 646) has still the original brass/bronze seacocks for cockpit drains from 1970 when the hull was built. It shows no corrosion at all in spite the boat has ben sailed in salt water for 24 of the 36 seasons of its life.
You can surely detect brass or bronze by only looking at it as it is a yellow-braunish coloured material. It is harder to detect the quality (i.e. the mix of basic materials in the mould). When replaced to bronze/brass again, the best marine components shall be used.
You can surely detect brass or bronze by only looking at it as it is a yellow-braunish coloured material. It is harder to detect the quality (i.e. the mix of basic materials in the mould). When replaced to bronze/brass again, the best marine components shall be used.
Marek, IF-båt SWE-829 "Ingela" från Lagunen i Malmö
Medlem i IF-båtförbundet sedan 1985
IF-båtägare sedan 1983
Medlem i IF-båtförbundet sedan 1985
IF-båtägare sedan 1983
Many thanks maja for your quick and helpful response. I would like to think that I was as lucky as you with your original fittings but somehow I don't think I am. I can't turn the handwheels on any of the valves and fear for breakages if I use force.
Based on what you write, I am going to dismantle the valves, check if brass or bronze, and replace with exact copies. That should solve it - at least in the short term.
Based on what you write, I am going to dismantle the valves, check if brass or bronze, and replace with exact copies. That should solve it - at least in the short term.
- maja
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If no maintenance is applied for years or if they are not turned regularily, after some time the seacocks often will not be able to be turned at all. But there are some tips to make them work again:
It is recommended to perform this procedure at least every 3-5 years. It will not take more than about 20 minutes per seacock when you know how to do. It is also recommended to turn the seacocks regularily.
I hope my English is understandable... If not, I may repeat the description in Swedish and you have to find someone else to translate...
- 1. Plug the seacock holes from underheath the hull (below the waterline) by using normal wine bottle corks, "adjusted" by a couple of layers of normal electric tape in order to get an appropriate (somewhat greater) diameter to fit into the holes. If champagne corks are used, make (cut) the diameter somewhat smaller to fit.
2.Fill the seacock holes from above (from the cockpit) with nornal cooking oil. (Motor oil is not recommended, as it is not allowed to let it out into the environment.)
3. Let the oil "work" for a couple of days, so it will have some time to penetrate all mechanic parts of the seacocks, remove oxidations and lubricate the moving/rotating parts.
4: Try the function of the seacocks. After this procedure it is normal that the secock will work again.
5: If still not turnable, let the oil stay for some more time. After that, repeat pos. 4 above.
6: When the seacock is working acceptably, remove the corks to drain the oil .
- 1: Remove the manoevring rod (or the handle/wheel if there is no rod mounted between the axis and the handle/wheel)
2: Remove the outer (smaller) nut in order to uncover the axis and the "entrance" to the mechanics.
3: When the nut is removed, it is often possible to turn the axis, carefully using an apporpriate tool (tong). Often the manoeuvring handle or wheel can be mounted directly on the axis. If this is still not possible, apply a thin areosol oil type 5-56 into the uncovered "entrance" of the mechanics.
4: When the axis is possible to turn, turn it clockwise. Thus, after a couple of full turns, in the first stage the seackock will be closed by the thread on the axis, but as there is now no outer nut preventing the axial movement, the axis with thread will come out.
5: On the axis itself there are (or sholuld be, they could have beend broken and disappeared) 2 small O-rings mounted in the 2 engraved rows, preventing water to penetrate. Replace them with new ones and lubricate the full mechanics with water resistant grease.
6. Mount everything together again.
It is recommended to perform this procedure at least every 3-5 years. It will not take more than about 20 minutes per seacock when you know how to do. It is also recommended to turn the seacocks regularily.
I hope my English is understandable... If not, I may repeat the description in Swedish and you have to find someone else to translate...
Marek, IF-båt SWE-829 "Ingela" från Lagunen i Malmö
Medlem i IF-båtförbundet sedan 1985
IF-båtägare sedan 1983
Medlem i IF-båtförbundet sedan 1985
IF-båtägare sedan 1983
Thank you once again for your most helpful advice - and be assured, your English is perfectly understandable.
I now plan to do exactly as you suggest. Firstly your tip #1 and if that doesn't solve the problem, then tip #2. The boat is on land at the moment so I don't visualise any problems.
The only little doubt I have remaining is the possibility that the internal valve stem (or axis) is corroded so badly that it will break under excessive torsion or indeed, some other part of the construction has been weakened by corrosion (de-zincification) and will fail. We shall see!
I will keep you informed as to progress. Fred
I now plan to do exactly as you suggest. Firstly your tip #1 and if that doesn't solve the problem, then tip #2. The boat is on land at the moment so I don't visualise any problems.
The only little doubt I have remaining is the possibility that the internal valve stem (or axis) is corroded so badly that it will break under excessive torsion or indeed, some other part of the construction has been weakened by corrosion (de-zincification) and will fail. We shall see!
I will keep you informed as to progress. Fred
- maja
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Did tip 1 work at once?
If so, be happy :D and launch the boat. Next time you take it on land, dismount the mechanics as per tip 2, change O-rings (2 on each axix) and apply water resistant greese. Then you will have no problems for 20 years. But do not forget to turn them now and then. Mechanic things like to be used... :D
In Sweden there is a class (non-profit) organisation for the IF-boat and Marieholm 26. One of the tasks is to gather and spread information about the boat, maintenance, trim, sailing technique etc. .You are lucky there is such an organisation... :D :D
If so, be happy :D and launch the boat. Next time you take it on land, dismount the mechanics as per tip 2, change O-rings (2 on each axix) and apply water resistant greese. Then you will have no problems for 20 years. But do not forget to turn them now and then. Mechanic things like to be used... :D
In Sweden there is a class (non-profit) organisation for the IF-boat and Marieholm 26. One of the tasks is to gather and spread information about the boat, maintenance, trim, sailing technique etc. .You are lucky there is such an organisation... :D :D
Marek, IF-båt SWE-829 "Ingela" från Lagunen i Malmö
Medlem i IF-båtförbundet sedan 1985
IF-båtägare sedan 1983
Medlem i IF-båtförbundet sedan 1985
IF-båtägare sedan 1983
Tip #1 worked at once in the sense that after I had left the 'rapsolie' to work for two days, I was able to turn the valve axis with only a little friendly persuasion. I removed the hand-wheel and used a small spanner very, very, carefully - working it slowly backwards and forwards, a little at a time. I suppose it took about 15 minutes per sea-cock.
Yes, I am very glad for the existence of the Swedish IF association - extremely useful.
I am at present in the process of joining the Danish IF association which has recently started a section for the Marieholm 26.
Yes, I am very glad for the existence of the Swedish IF association - extremely useful.
I am at present in the process of joining the Danish IF association which has recently started a section for the Marieholm 26.